Norouz in Tehran
Freelance Writer - Tehran
Persepolis all nations staircase depicting people from across Persia bringing Norouz gifts for the king.While certain Western powers may be busily engaged in manufacturing consent for an attack on Iran, Iranians themselves, whom I have found gentle and courteous by nature, are busily engaged in buying goldfish for Norouz, or New Year's Day. In Mansuri Street, Nejatollah Street, and Resalat Square in Northeast Tehran, glass tanks, plastic bowls, and even bathtubs full of orange fish have appeared in market places and outside shops. In addition, there are water snakes and turtles. On sale are also painted eggs, young shoots and herbs growing on dishes and a variety of colored candles.
(Persepolis all nations staircase depicting people from across Persia bringing Norouz gifts for the king.)
Norouz, which marks the beginning of the spring equinox, falls every year on March 21 (or Farvardin 1 in the Persian calendar). Its exact time is calculated according to astronomical methods used in 1725 BCE by Zarathustra, who established a solar calendar in Iran. This year, Norouz began in Tehran at 3:27 a.m. Norouz is celebrated in countries that were previously part of the Persian Empire, including Iraq, Afghanistan, and the Central Asian states. Zoroastrians and Parsis in India and Kurds also observe it. For Kurds in Turkey, it has become a symbol of national identity. How It All Began Some sources say that the Norouz traditions go back 3000 years; others say 5000 years, and still others say 15,000 years, before the last Ice Age, to a time when Indo-Iranians began the transition from a nomadic way of life based upon seasonal migrations accompanied by cattle, to a more settled existence. The Iranian king, Jamshid (King Yima of Eastern Iran, now Afghanistan) is supposed to have introduced the tradition of marking the spring equinox in approximately 5000 CE. Centuries later, Norouz became the day when the Iranian kings were to be greeted by their subjects, bearing gifts. Images of dignitaries approaching the throne of the king can be seen engraved on the walls at Persepolis (Pasargard).
Some historians say that the Norouz festivities were borrowed from ancient Babylonians, after Cyrus the Great conquered Babylon and his son, Cambyses, became king in 538 CE, bringing the tradition back to Iran. Even Alexander the Great celebrated Norouz after conquering Persia, when he had to participate in a ritual battle against a demon and defeat it, a symbol of the forces of light conquering the forces of darkness. He was then considered to be Ahura Mazda's ("God" in Zoroastrian tradition) vicegerent on earth. Finally, according to one source, there are records of the first four Caliphs taking part in Norouz celebrations, and the Abbassids declared it a national holiday (BookRags).
(A man celebrating Chaharshanbe Suri )
A Typical Norouz
A man celebrating Chaharshanbe SuriPreparations for Norouz begin two or three weeks earlier. As it is the time of rebirth and purification, the house is cleaned from top to bottom, although it is also said this originates from the belief that, five days before Norouz, the guardian angels come down to earth to visit those whom they protect, and houses are cleaned and food is cooked in order to welcome them (Massoume). The last Wednesday of the year, known as Chaharshanbe Suri, is a time when fires are lit in the streets, to celebrate light triumphing over darkness. People leap over them singing traditional songs, and fireworks are lit.
This year in Sayyed Khandan, massive explosions were detonated, which shook the windows and set off car alarms far across the city. I thought both of the poor little orange fish in their bathtubs, sheltering under their plastic sheeting for the night, and also what it might be like if the US decided to drop bombs on Tehran. One of the most important elements of Norouz is the arrangement of the Haft Sin (seven S's). These symbolic items can vary, but most include sabzi (green herbs, or lentil sprouts grown on a dish), sir (garlic), sib (apples), sekkeh (coins), sonbol (hyacinth), somaq (the red sumac herb), and samanu (wheat pudding). They are laid out on a table, along with a holy book, which for Zoroastrians is the Avesta and for Muslims who celebrate Norouz is the Qur'an. The lit candles are placed next to the Haft Sin, to symbolize enlightenment, along with the painted eggs, and a bowl with two fish in it, to symbolize life. Sometimes a bowl of water is placed on the table with an orange in it to symbolize the Earth in space. You can see the Haft Sin on display in people's homes, as well as in public buildings, such as the Reza Abbasi museum. One lady's cousin had made her display by hand, although now you can buy them ready-made.
(The traditional Haft Sin)
At the time of Norouz, there is a two-week holiday. Most shops are closed (which means you have to hunt further afield for your delicious subsidised sesame bread), there is little traffic, and people spend their time visiting family and friends, often taking journeys north to the Caspian Sea, or visiting the holy city of Mashhad Muqaddas. In Tehran, the air is cleaner and the snow-topped mountains can be clearly seen over the city skyline. On Norouz day, families wear new clothes and special dishes are eaten, such as sabzipolo mahi, rice with herbs and fish, and reshteh polo, rice with noodles. Boxes of cakes (shirini) are bought for visits, tied together with ribbon or string. The house is alive with the coming and going of guests and relatives.
Norouz festivities continue for 12 days, and on the 13th day (sizdah be-dar), which is considered inauspicious, families go out for picnics and eat ash (noodle soup). The sprouting seedlings, which are supposed to have absorbed all sickness and badness, are thrown into running water - such as that which flows down from the mountains in the narrow street canals - in order to get rid of the shayatin (devils or divs), and as for the fish, some are taken to nearby ponds or lakes, and some are put in private fishponds, or die after a few weeks, or are flushed away.
Norouz also has spiritual dimensions: It is a time for humankind to reconnect with nature, where everything comes to life after a long winter. Buds appear on the trees, japonica appears in the parks, the days are longer, and the air is fresh. Even in the shadow of the threat of war, it is a time for hope and regeneration.References:
"Norouz" BookRags. Last accessed 26 March 2007.
Jafari, Dr. Ali A. " Norooz (New Day) ." Circle of Ancient-Iranian Studies. Last accessed 26 March 2007.
Massoume. " No Ruz Is a Celebration of Life." Payvand. March 1999. Last accessed 26 March 2007.
Shariarti, Dr. Ali. " Norouz: Declaration of Iranians' Livelihood, Eternity. " Last accessed 26 March 2007.
--------------------------------------END------------------------------------------
